This is where you would find me on Erato
after 6 o'clock in the
afternoon signing in the guests for the next
day's sail trip.
Getting to Greece by plane When you arrive
at Athens airport Elefterios Venizelos take
the bus to Piraeus main harbour, then get on the
conventional Ferryboat (two and a half to three
hours to reach the island of Hydra) or on a
Flying Dolphin Hydrofoil boat (one and a half
hours).
Busses leave at frequent intervals and
timetables are to be found on the official site
of the shipping company
Getting to Greece on a car ferry to Patras When
you arrive in Patras from Europe, take the
motorway to Athens, when you pass Corinth and
before Corinth Canal, take the direction to
Epidaurus. After New Epidaurus look out for a
sign to Galatas and follow the road till you get
there. When you arrive in Galatas you leave your
car at the car park and take the local Ferry Boat
(five minutes) to the island of Poros. It sails every half hour.
From there
you can get on a boat to Hydra.
If you are planning a tour of the Peloponese by
car, Galatas is an excellent base.
|
Useful numbers
|
|
Police
|
22980 52205
|
|
Port police
|
22980 52279
|
|
Town Hall
|
22980 52210
|
|
Post office
|
22980 52262
|
|
Hospital
|
22980 53150
|
|
Doctor
|
22980 52420
|
|
Pharmacy
|
22980 52059
|
|
Pharmacy
|
22980 53260
|
|
Flying Dolphins
|
22980 53813
|
|
Saitis tours
|
22980 54151
|
|
Hydraioniki travel
|
22980 54007
|
|
|
hotels
Rugged and mountainous, 12 nm long and 3 nm
wide, Hydra island lies between the Saronic gulf
and Myrtoon sea.
From a distance the peak of mount Eros is
clearly seen rising to 500 meters above sea
level. The view from the summit is
breathtaking.
A first time visitor to Hydra would expect
springs and rivers.
This was probably the case in the distant past
and maybe responsible for the island's name.
In modern times, water on Hydra is scarce and
the traditional way is to build a house on a
cistern which is filled with rainwater during the
winter months. With increasing needs due to
tourism this is clearly inadequate and a water
tanker sails into Hydra harbour every day
bringing water from the Peloponese. This is
pumped up to the reservoir and piped to the town
below.
Donkeys, mules and small horses surprise the first time visitor to Hydra. They are the
means of land transport on the
island. You can see them laden with all sorts of
things that would be normally carried by a truck,
or patiently waiting at the water front for
tourists wanting to take a ride through the
narrow cobbled streets or to more remote
destinations such as one of the numerous
monasteries built on higher ground.
Other than quadrupeds transport around Hydra is
by sea. A taxi on Hydra is a fast boat and it
will take you anywhere within reach, weather
permitting.
There are only a couple of motorised vehicles.
They belong to the municipality and are mainly
used for collecting garbage. Other than that,
cars and motor bikes are banned on the island.
Even bicycles are frowned upon. The rational
reason for this is that there are hardly any
roads built for this kind of traffic and most
roads are effectively steps running up and down
the steep amphitheatric terrain. It is also true
to say that the prohibition of motor vehicles
helps Hydra preserve its character.
Another surprise are the cats. They come in all shapes and colours and they seem to be everywhere. You will see many of them on the pier, when the fishing boats come in, claming their share of the catch. The fishermen are generous.
It is understandable that there are some 'arguments' when the fishermen throw fish on the pier for them.
Some of them learn to fish straight out of the sea.
They also frequent snack bars, restaurants and tavernas at meal times.They go around looking at people with their doleful eyes and wait for a kindly soul to give them some scraps. They are very tame and will not say no if you really want to cuddle them.
Evidence of the Hydra cats you will also find in the tourist shops where there are post cards and other artifacts of cats. At the right time of the year you can even get an Hydra cat wall calendar. A good alternative to the pinups.
The
history of Hydra goes back to early history.
Remains from as far back as Mycenean times have
been found but also more recent ones such as
roman and medieval. It seems that Hydra has been
inhabited throughout history but mostly as an
unimportant backwater.
Sea trade and occasionally piracy, were always a
source of wealth for the island. Towards the end
of the 18th century sea trade flourished and
earned Hydra the nickname of "Little England". In
the 19th century, sea captains built mansions to
reflect their wealth. When the war of
independence against Turkish rule was declared
(1821) the trade vessels were converted to war
ships and new war ships were built. This was the
high moment in the history of Hydra which is very
much in evidence. It is to this glorious time
that Hydra owes its flag.
Approaching from the sea, you will see the
cannons lining up the fortifications along the
sea front.
One of them is kept in running order and it is
fired whenever Hydra is celebrating. This happens
very often.
Beyond the fortifications you will see the
massive residences built by the hydriot sea
captains.
Many of these have been donated and are in use
by various important institutions on the
island.
The historical archive - museum is housed in the
mansion of Gikas Koulouras and it contains
archives, many exhibits from the island's marine
history, a painting exhibition and a library.
Some of the rooms are made available for
contemporary art shows and other current cultural
events.
The nearby Marine Academy is housed in the
Tsamados and Koulouras mansion. This was
established in 1749 as a school and dedicated to
marine studies since 1800. In 1930 the school was
housed in the present premises and support from
the state came in 1937 to Hydra along with Syros
and Nafplio.
Studies last 4 years and during this time
students gain practical experience working as
merchant seamen for four periods of about 6
months.
Across the harbour, the school of fine art is
housed in the Tombazi mansion near the
Kountouriotis statue.
The walls are lined with pictures of historical
events and ships of the revolution.
The ecclesiastical museum is housed in the Hydra
Cathedral premises, formerly a monastery.
Historical documents are kept here, along with
religious relics.
More recently the Koundouriotis mansion has been
acquired by the Greek government renovated and
commissioned as a museum too.
All
the museums are well worth a visit and there are
usually many other cultural events:
painting exhibitions, music performances puppet
shows, street shows
A visit to one of the many monasteries is also a
good way to pass the time, feel the culture and
enjoy hospitality. Remember to dress in a modest
way if you do not want to offend or even be
turned away.
Being on an island, surrounded by the deep blue
sea, you may wish for a place to swim. The
nearest option is the cave just outside the
harbour. The water is deep and blue. You can dive
or just fall in without fear and there is a
ladder for you to come back up again.
Beyond that there is Mandraki. This is to the
north east and can be reached on foot (25 mins)
or by boat. It is the older harbour of Hydra, a
beautiful bay with a nice sandy beach, water
sports and the Miramare hotel bar where you can
quench your thirst. The walk along the sea from
the harbour is well worth it with the view of the
sea and nearby Peloponese as a reward.
In the other direction, south west, lies Kamini
which can also be reached on foot or by boat.
This is almost an extension of Hydra town and is
best considered as a small fishing port. You can
get to it over the hill or by walking along the
sea front with the same breath-taking view. Here
you can have a choice of tavernas for when you
get hungry or thirsty.
Further along is Vlychos. More sea front and
more tavernas. The beach here is more organised
and you can have the benefit of an umbrella and a
sun bed to laze on.
There is more further along but the going could
get a little tough. Better to take a boat for the
remaining destinations:
Palamidas, Molos, Bisti, Ag. Nicholaos. You can
rely on the same boat to come and get you back at
an agreed time.
Hydra harbour is in the middle of the town and
it is a very attractive place to while away the
time sipping your drink at one of the cafeterias
and bars lining the water front. Although it is
rather small, it accommodates all the regular and
visiting boats.
*the water tanker that brings water to the
island
*the cargo ship that brings in building
materials - sand, gravel etc
*private pleasure craft of the locals.
*boats for hire which take tourists to one or
another of the beaches for a swim.
*boats offering diving trips including
instruction up to the highest qualifications.
*two regular ferry boats which bring provisions
to the island.
*fishing boats which bring in their catch every
morning,
*taxis that will take you to any destination in
the area.
*ferry boats, hydrofoil boats and cruise ships
which tie up here just long enough for their
passengers' needs. Larger cruise boats ferry
their passengers with their launches.
*visiting motor yachts of the wealthy which
compete with one another with shining plastic and
stainless steel.
*the visiting sailing yachts which find shelter
here too.
*some annual sailing races have Hydra as their
destination too.
Very often the pier is not enough for the
visiting yachts and they raft up to one another 2
- 3 - 4 deep. Nobody is turned away.
With all this traffic there is always something
happening in the harbour - it is a busy
place.
Docking in Hydra (in fact most of Greece) is
in the normal Mediterranean mooring which
consists of putting down your anchor and coming
astern to the pier.
If you have a choice you should prefer the north
pier as the prevailing winds are northerly and it
is clearly preferable that you
should be 'hanging' on your stern lines
rather than on your anchor, as the ground is of
poor holding in many places.
If you do tie up on the southern pier, make sure
you put out as much chain (and line if needed) as
possible to be reasonably sure you will not drag
your anchor.
To give you an idea, as I am spending a lot of
time in Hydra harbour I make sure I put out
almost all of my 120 meters of 10 mm chain every
time and have never yet been in danger because of
weather.
Also in such a crowded harbour it is not unusual
that a departing - sometimes also an arriving
yacht - may pull your anchor off the bottom. If
you have plenty of scope it may be possible for
you to just pull on your chain and stay where you
are. Otherwise you should go and relay your
anchor.
Winds are normally fairly moderate and they
present no great challenge. But when stronger
winds blow you have better keep an eye on your
yacht. A strong northerly or southerly may cause
some concern but the worst wind in the area is a
westerly of some force. It is interesting that
this turns into the harbour and
brings big waves with it. In these conditions
many yachts have been seriously damaged and in
2003 one yacht sunk in the harbour .
If you are there when this happens, the wise
thing is to weigh anchor and seek shelter in a
bay such as Mandraki or Molos or even in
neighbouring Ermioni (about 10 sea miles
away).
Harbour facilities include the port police for a
weather forecast, water on the pier and
provisioning in the town.
You can also see the weather forecast here
Some yachting supplies can be
found in the town: Ropes, hardware, paint and varnish,
camping gas, engine oil, limited fuel, cleaning
materials etc.